Last pic of vintage from home, rather tedious to show your own stuff.
(Anybody who want's more, just ask, I'm easy to persuade)
A 1940's (late 30's?) PAY DAY koverall.
"Post Depression-brands" like Pay Day and Hercules stand for some of the most fantastic designs and indigo fabrics ever made.
And check out the label, a wonderful example of the labelling style in those days.

Just had to get this one published as well, then we'll get back to all-american vintage.
Albeit very rescent (and ugly), it's still a nice contribution to "modern vintage" concidering the international hype.
This is the first washed out denim jacket Acne made.
Has the logo-flame applique in back.
It never hit the stores as it became "Too fucking expensive".
It would have been like 170 USD retail, not exactly off the charts.
But then again, around the same time Diesels "Old Glory" (amazing) was around 200 USD and that was astronomical figures for a pair of jeans.
This is the prototype.
Made in southern Italy, must have been around -98 I think.
I went alone to the factory and had Dom Perignon Grappa (fantastic) with a local mafioso who owned the only hotel. (that was empty except for me)
Now I'm a tired dad with two kids, what the hell happend?!

Moving from proper vintage americana, a true piece of Swedish denim history!
This is a pair of Gul & Blå ("Yellow & Blue"), the first real swedish denim brand ever to hit the streets, 1966.
They created total chaos and the line of people waiting was three blocks long outside the store. 1973 they sold 600-700 per DAY!
This is the "TT" model, one of the first lot's produced, in mint condition.
Got it from one of their sales guys like 14 years ago when he realized I was a complete nut for vintage.
This is pristine and it's in a way the foundation on which all swedish denim brands today stand on.
I cherish them as much as any of the Levi's and Lee's I have.
Almost.
By the way, no, it's not even close when I think about it.
But still kinda cool.
And, the founders daughter started Filippa K, great swedish brand where my buddy Rasmus design the mens line.

Moving on with another nice piece.
A pair of 701 XX a.k.a "Womens Levis".
This pair is from early 1950's. Lot of nice details on these.
They got a pink selvadge for starters!
A rather bold (yet subtle) take on women's denim. Back in those days at least.
This is exactly the model Marilyn Monroe wore in "Bus Stop".
These are smoking, high waist, tapered leg. Very "Brook Shields"

I promised to post some pics of my collection..
506 XX (Type One) Jacket.
Note the hand-hammered backside of the rivets! B-e-a-u-t-i-f-u-l.
I traded this jacket many years ago with this fantastic guy named Seth. Seth's the owner of one of NYC's most reputable vintage dealers / stores "what comes around goes around" on west broadway.
Next time in the big apple, check it out. Or die.

I was going to post pics of my collection, but blogger is screwed up.
I'll get some sleep instead. Crap.

Check out the small flask from Hanbury Tennis club.
It reads "Gut Revivor". (wonder what the surgeons warning in the back says..)
Probably could have used a bit of that potent lotion last sunday after a seriously fun wedding.

Speaking of Gut Revivor
I can not point out strongly enough that NYC brands like Band of Outsiders, Freeman Sporting Club, Tim Hamilton and the likes of them needs to be saluted once again.
(Yes, I'm sure there's new players on the scene, but I'm to uncool to know)

While buying half the store at Beyond Retro today I saw so many cool dressed dudes. I need to go to Söder more often, at least that part.
I still get allergic reactions from Hornstull after living there for 5 years. This was before a flat was 3 million for half a kithcen, no view and suicide included)


I got the comment the other day in the office that I looked very "freemanish", in all vanity I took it as a compliment.
And, as I'm already sporting a mustach I can also tell people that "I grew it in favor of fighting prostate cancer"
(There's a ad-campaign going on in sweden)
This is, of course, in no way true, but it sounds good and works great in areas like Söder where people actually cares about this stuff.

Ah, and there's a new crave. Vintage Sabatier cooking knives.
Seem to a wide range of stamps, sub-labels (2 lions, The elephant, 4 stars etc) to keep track of to determine the age, quality, origin. Can't wait to dig in to this.
I got one that I "borrowed" from mom like 10 years ago, it's still sharp as a mo-fo and comes to use on a daily basis.

So, apart the obvious hassle of getting knives through customs, I see no reason not to spend next months salary on a full set.
(Apart from perhaps having to cancel the trip to Italy this summer..)

There's actually great similarity between collecting denim and cooking knives. The patina, the detailing, the daily use and so on.
Only difference would be you can't use a pair of jeans to make sauce bearnaise.

Check out the stamp on this pairing knife. Need-to-buy. Now.

Long time no blog.

After reading a fanatic ( and fantastic) blog devoted to all things denim (repeattofade.blogspot.com) I feel a sudden urge to to revive my passion for indigo. I'll devote the next couple of days to depict some of my own collection, stay tuned for indigo porn.
My collection would have been substantially bigger hadn't I've been forced to sell some of it from time to time to afford partying in style back in the bad old days.

The only (proper) way to wear denim in style this (and coming season) is with a mid waist, drain-pipes and small turn-ups to get that high-tide length. Chucks or brogues, depending on the evenings event.
Think Thom Browne without the "silly length" and you'll do fine. (Or skinhead)
Preferrably with a cropped gingham shortsleeved shirt from band of outsiders.

Apart from denim, this weeks addition to "small details that makes all the change" has to be
uneven real mother of pearl shirt buttons that I will sport come next season.
Ultra subtile details like this makes me, well, happy.

Ok, how hard is it to find inspiration if you live on 4th street and Charles?
Not hard at all I would say.
New York at it's finest, god damnit!

When lunch at restaurant Boom in Soho became slightly longer than expected (due to a tasty Chianti Classico)
the waitress tricked out the candle simply by wrapping the handwritten menu around it.
Trés genial.
After this we found some really nice vintage stuff at What Comes Around Goes Around.
(Shopping slightly tipsy is the new black)

This floor is brand new, yet looks like it's 200 years old and re-painted again and again.
Underneath there seemed to be an steel grey/blue and top coated with a yellowish hard finish laquer.
This EXACTLY how the floors should look in the Bed and Breakfast me and my wife will open in Alassio when we're "older".
The floor can be found in meatpacking district , where else..courtesy of the Adrian Ruhle store
Next doors to the really really nice restaurant 5 / Ninth.

Bistro Nouveau, stockholm latest (and only?) addition to the bistro scene opened 2 days ago.
We tried it out yesterday and the verdict can only be: Fantastic!!
Even though we waited almost 45 minutes for the food (and the service was "so-so" to say the least), it was in all a very happy moment for anyone who loves a well performed setting and thought behind every detail.
It's so well put together, everything from the Voluspa scented candles and the lighting in the restrooms to the sauce bearnaise was top notch. Is this really Stockholm?, hard to believe, but oh, so true!!
Well Done!!

Thom Browne?
Timothy Hamilton is the new Thom Browne.
(Poor Michael Bastian got to be king for one season...)
Hamilton's collection at Bergdorf was low-key, masculine and very beautiful.
Although, Thom Browne is one of few designers who uses raw cotton wads as
cover sheeting on his button downs shirts.
Savile Row stylee!

What a sad archaic little world I live in..

If you're in to selling smokes, this is the way to do it, 'nuff said.

They also had a -96 "Don" Pérignon at 240 dolares a bottle on the menu..
Has Mexico, against all odds, purchased the license to manufacture champagne?
(I looove when cool New York restaurateurs mess up)

Jean-Michel Cousteau dropped by the office today, seems like a really nice dude.
He really (I mean really!) likes the ocean. We're helping him save it best we can.

(I really, really, really like expensive stuff. I wish someone started
a society to help save my personal checking account)

It's old news to most but if you're out for something really heavy and want to smell like a true Italian gentleman, go for
Czech & Speak's "Citrus Paradisi"
Perfect if you hold a daytime job managing the Hanbury Tennis Club in Alassio and spend all night having drinks with the creme de la creme. I'll definately be sporting it this summer.

If you've been missing Helmut Lang's Velviona:
Malin & Goetz Synthezised Musk is the answer to your prayers.
It might not be just as intense and strangely fantastic as Velviona due to it's many more
components, but it still does the job.

Otherwise, anything from D&L Co's signature line will do the trick.
They use handpleated, swiss tissue to cover their candles.
Now THAT's luxury.

So, checklist for this spring:
Mixing pinstripe with barstriped cashmere?
Check.
Vintage Rayban Aviator shades?
Check.
A pac of blue striped poplin button down shirts?
Check.
Weekend bag in leather to stuff into?
Check.
Getting free Bellinis at the bar in bergdorf?
Check.

I got a hair cut at freemans old barber salon.
Ivan, the hairdresser (?) told me all about Puerto Rico's political history, and did a somewhat lousy haircut.
The guys told me I looked like Liza Minelli during dinner (that too at Freemans..) Not a good look I guess.
The barbershop itself kicks ass though, big time.

Later that night I (literary) ran into Janice Dickinson at some bar.
At least I think it was her, because I said "Oh, hi, your'e like Janice Dickinson aren't ya?"
She seemed high as a kite and asked some huuuge dude to "get rid of me".
Horrible dragon of a woman.
I have to stop talking to celebs, nothing good will come of it, ever.

NYC report:

The kind of intellectual welldressed, almost workwear-ish trend that continues with Freeman, Band of Brothers and such
still rules in the big apple. And it still feels like the freshest things since apple juice.